Science of Hair made simple! Understand why your hair feels like it does..

Can you believe that in order to change just 1% of colour in our hair, we pretty much change the WHOLE composition of it?? joico diagram hair slice70 – 80% PROTEIN (strength)

10 – 15% MOISTURE (softness)

3 – 6% LIPID OILS (pliability, frizz factor)

.05 – .5% MINERALS (from outside elements)

0.1 – 0.5% CARBOHYDRATES (the more carbs, the thicker the hair)

1% PIGMENT (hair colour) !!!

This will give you a better idea of where your hair’s condition is at, and then with that knowledge, you can decide which hair type you fit into, and make informed decisions of the correct types of products to use on your hair.

Just because your hair is feeling dry and dull, it doesn’t necessarily need moisture!

 Then with my expert knowledge in the industry, I will explain the difference between shop products, and professional salon products

Hair develops in a hair follicle. As it grows in the follicle, cells dry and harden.

Your hair is comprised of 5-15 layers of cuticles (think fish scales) which are on the outside of the hair. Their main function is to protect the Cortex and to reflect light.  These layers are all held together by Ceramides.  Cuticles that are in a good condition, lie flat and are nice and smooth, so they make the hair appear glossy and shiny.

We lose Ceramides on a daily basis from brushing, washing and letting the wind blow through our hair, or just from being in the sun. We lose a lot more when we do any chemical services on our hair.  When we lose and do not replace these Ceramides, we land up getting dull, lifeless hair. Without any Ceramides to keep our Cuticles stuck together, we land up getting those pesky split ends.

splite ends

You get two types of Hair damage.

Mechanical Damage

Is caused by excessive, vigorous brushing and combing. Hair is weakened when wet, so more care needs to be taken when combing. Only use a “Tangle Angel or Tangle Teazer” if you prefer to brush it when wet. Always rather comb with your conditioner in, and then use Tangle Angel/ Teazer to neaten up again before blowdrying

Hairdryers, Flat Irons, Tongs reduce the moisture content of the hair. Over ironing can lead to such a high depletion of Ceramides that can actually cause the hair to break. A good heat protector should be used whenever you use heated elements.  The Heat Protector should always say how many heat degrees it protects from. When re-ironing the hair on day 2 or 3, it’s very important to use protection! Sun can also be very damaging on the hair for the same reason, especially if combined with salty sea water.

hair
On the left we have a healthy strand of hair, with cuticles lying flat and smooth. The 2nd pic shows how the hair looks when over blowdried, or badly brushed. The pic on the right shows how the Cuticles have melted off from excessive use of a Hair Straightener

Chemical Damage

Bleaches, Lighteners and Colorants also change the structure by swelling the cuticle to allow chemicals to penetrate.

Any form of lightening removes not only the pigment from the hair, but it can seriously deplete the hair of very high levels of it’s Protein or Keratin. It can also deplete lipids and moisture, causing dull, lifeless hair. Not all lighteners are made equal. A lot of professional brands take great care to make their lighteners and bleaches as gentle as possible, and try to feed the hair, while removing the pigment, but your hairdresser really needs to still know their stuff!

Olaplex has been a great revolution to add into lighteners and bleach, to prevent a lot of damage, but lighteners still need to be used with caution.

Colouring your midlengths and ends all the time can also eventually cause chemical damage to the hair, especially if you are trying to colour at home.

Permanent Straightening or “Perms” change the structure of the hair. Any of these processes that involves manipulating cuticles and internal fibres of the hair, should always be followed with a caring treatment that will seal the cuticle, and protect and repair the internal structure.

 

 

Mirrors-37

 

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